Mit dem richtigen Business Outfit punkten

Mit dem richtigen Business Outfit punkten

Kleider machen Leute: Laut Statistischem Bundesamt gaben die Deutschen im Jahr 2016 58,1 Milliarden Euro für Bekleidung aus, darunter auch für das Business-Outfit. Aber nicht alles, was gefällt, ist auch eine gute Wahl. Das trifft besonders auf Kleidung am Arbeitsplatz zu.

Klar, manche Berufe ersparen dem Arbeitnehmer durch vorgeschriebene Berufskleidung große Gedanken über das Outfit. OP-Kittel oder Blaumann, fertig! Die meisten Firmen lassen ihren Mitarbeitern in puncto Style allerdings freie Hand. Mit der Wahl des Outfits treffen Berufstätige jeden Tag aufs Neue eine Entscheidung, die weit über das Oberflächliche hinausgeht. Denn Kleidung kennt viele Sprachen und Signale. Ein schlechter Eindruck, der durch ein unpassendes Outfit entsteht, lässt sich nur mühsam wieder korrigieren. Grund genug, sich ein paar Grundregeln einzuprägen, mit denen man im Job stets gut angezogen ist.

Lieber zu viel Business als zu wenig

Zunächst einmal gilt: Wer einen neuen Job antritt, sollte im Zweifel vorher nach dem Dresscode im Unternehmen fragen. Die Branche kann eine erste Orientierung bieten. Während in Banken und Großkanzleien ausnahmslos Anzug und Kostüm gefordert sind, fällt man in Werbeagenturen mit einer Krawatte auf und aus dem Rahmen. In vielen Unternehmen ist der Dresscode eine Frage der Unternehmenskultur und nach außen hin nicht ersichtlich. Die Personalabteilung gibt hierzu gerne Auskunft. Hat man vorab keine Informationen, sollte man zur Sicherheit lieber etwas förmlicher auftreten als zu leger. Damit zeigt man, dass man die neue Stelle ernst nimmt und sich von seiner besten Seite präsentieren möchte. Das gilt im Übrigen auch für die Kleidung beim Vorstellungsgespräch. Gerade Frauen sollten darauf achten, nicht zu viel Haut zu zeigen, damit nicht der Eindruck aufkommt, man wolle der Fachkompetenz durch eine, nun ja, persönliche Note nachhelfen. Geht es um eine Stelle in einer typischen Männerdomäne, empfehlen Experten möglichst geschlechtsneutrale Kleidung. So traurig es klingt: Zu viel sichtbare Weiblichkeit führt bei Personalern schnell zu Zweifeln an der Kompetenz der Bewerberin. Also beim Autobauer lieber im Hosenanzug mit hochgesteckten Haaren vorsprechen.

Dunkle und gedeckte Farben gehen immer

Auch die eigene Position sollte sich in der Arbeitskleidung widerspiegeln. Von Auszubildenden und Praktikanten werden meistens weder Krawatte noch Kostüm erwartet. Ein seriöses Business-Outfit, das den Gepflogenheiten der Branche entspricht, sollte es aber in jedem Fall sein. Bei den Farben ist man in den meisten Branchen mit dunklen, gedeckten Tönen am besten bedient. Fashion-Blogger Steffen von Fashionboxx empfiehlt die Kombinationen Schwarz und Weiß sowie Dunkelblau, Braun und Weiß. Damit ist man immer auf der richtigen Seite. Unter den dunklen Anzug oder das Sakko gehört ein helles, langärmliges Hemd. Steffen empfiehlt hellblau und weiß, die sind absolute Must-Haves. Extrem wichtig ist auch die Passform. Ein teurer Designeranzug bringt nicht viel, wenn er an den falschen Stellen beult und spannt, sagt Steffen. Er empfiehlt, lieber in gutsitzende Teile zu investieren.

Accessoires vervollständigen das Business-Outfit

Ebenfalls positiv auffallen kann man mit Accessoires und Schuhen. Gerade für Herren gelten hier strenge Regeln. Sebastian von Männer Style empfiehlt besonders für förmliche Situationen wie Bewerbungsgespräche klassische Modelle wie Oxford oder Budapester (Anm. d. Redaktion: beide Namen beziehen sich auf den gleichen Schnitt). „Wenn es ein wenig legerer sein darf, kommt auch noch der Derby in Frage”, sagt er. Worauf man immer achten sollte, ist die Farbkombination: „Egal ob Anzug oder Smart Casual, es gilt darauf zu achten, dass Lederschuhe und Gürtel farblich übereinstimmen.” Das heißt, zum schwarzen Anzug passen schwarze Schuhe und Gürtel. Braune Schuhe sind eine gute Wahl zum dunkelblauen Anzug, aber auch zur Kombination von Jeans und Hemd. Zur Vorsicht rät Sebastian bei Trendschuhen wie dem Monk: Diese ziehen zu sehr Blicke auf sich und lenken ab. Beim Schuhkauf sollte man auf gute Qualität achten. Neben sauber gearbeiteten, festen Nähten ist das eine Vollleder-Innensohle für die Luftzirkulation. Die Außen-Sohle darf hingegen auch aus Gummi sein. Sebastian rät sogar zur Gummisohle, denn sie ist robuster und macht den Schuh langlebiger.

Business Make-up und Frisuren fürs Büro

Für Frauen gehört auch das Make-up zum Business-Outfit. Es sollte so natürlich wie möglich wirken, den Typ der Trägerin unterstreichen und selbstverständlich zum Unternehmensstil passen, sagt Sandra Brammer von Beauty Coach. Sie berät die Mitarbeiter von Unternehmen und weiß genau, worauf es bei einem perfekten Business Look ankommt. Für das tägliche Make-up sollte man nie auf Wimperntusche und Rouge verzichten. Damit die Haut trotz eines langen Arbeitstages nicht glänzt, trage morgens ein transparentes Puder zur Fixierung auf die T-Zone auf. Dadurch hält auch die Grundierung besonders lange. Kräftige Farben sind übrigens im Business-Bereich tabu, außer man arbeitet in der Modebranche. „Bei den Lippen gilt, weniger ist mehr”, verrät Brammer. Lipgloss und dunkle Konturen eignen sich nicht fürs Büro, ebenso wenig wie Lidschatten mit Glitter oder in dunklen Farben. Wenn man sich mal etwas blass fühlt, sind Bräunungspuder und etwas mehr Rouge geeignet, um einen frischen Teint zu zaubern. Dunkle Foundation taugt hingegen nicht als Bräunungsmittel, es sieht unnatürlich aus und lässt einen älter wirken. Auch der Frisur solltest du genügend Aufmerksamkeit schenken und diese im Job immer dem Dresscode anpassen. Auch wenn es morgens schnell gehen muss, sollten die Haare unbedingt gepflegt aussehen. Ein ausgeleierter Haargummi passt nicht dazu, besser eine Haarsträhne drum herumwickeln, rät Brammer. Mit Haarspray bändigt man widerspenstige Strähnen. Für lange Tage, etwa auf Messen oder wenn ein Firmenevent ansteht, verleiht man mit Lockenstab, Heißwicklern und Fön der Frisur Haltbarkeit. Zum Business-Hairstyle gehört schließlich auch der regelmäßige Besuch beim Friseur. Gewagte Farben und herausgewachsene Ansätze sind laut Brammer ein No-Go.

Business Casual ist mehr Business als Casual

Ist man nach einem langen Tag im Anzug zum Dinner mit der Abteilung geladen, heißt der Dresscode häufig Business Casual. Prima, schnell die Lederschuhe gegen Sneakers austauschen und in ein T-Shirt schlüpfen! Aber Vorsicht: Auch wenn das Wort „Casual” nach Freizeitkleidung klingt, sollte man sich nicht zu allzu bequem anziehen, wenn Business Casual angesagt ist. Das gleiche gilt für den Casual Friday. Grundsätzlich ist man in einer beruflichen Situation, und die Kleidung sollte das widerspiegeln. Das heißt, dass bei den Damen Röcke nicht zu kurz und Ausschnitte nicht zu großzügig sein sollten. Für Herren sind kurze Hosen immer tabu. Jeans sind in Ordnung – wenn sie gepflegt sind und zu Hemd und Sakko kombiniert werden. Das Hoodie ist dem Feierabend vorbehalten.

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